Another interesting building I snapped in passing
Another interesting building I snapped in passing

Oh, here it is!  How could I have missed it?
Oh, here it is! How could I have missed it?

Shochu on the rocks.  And quite a rock it is!
Shochu on the rocks. And quite a rock it is!

Oyster with ponzu gelee
Oyster with ponzu gelee

Ark shell and monkfish liver in a miso-based sauce
Ark shell and monkfish liver in a miso-based sauce

Soup of crab and root vegetable
Soup of crab and root vegetable

Sashimi platter made up of grouper, tuna, and lobster tail
Sashimi platter made up of squid topped with Ossetra caviar, grouper, tuna, and lobster tail

Blackthroat perch served with lotus root, fried gingko, and tofu.  The picture on the plate is made out of squid ink and miso, and an application of the tofu cleverly transferred their flavors - and erased the fish.
Blackthroat perch served with lotus root, fried gingko, and tofu. The picture on the plate is made out of squid ink and miso, and an application of the tofu cleverly transferred their flavors - and erased the fish.

Pressed roe with fig
Pressed roe with fig

Compote gelee with salt ice cream
Compote gelee with salt ice cream

Apple and yuza desserts presented in an Autumn theme
Apple and yuza desserts presented in an Autumn theme
Taking a stroll through Harajuku
Taking a stroll through Harajuku

Harujuku street fashion
Harujuku street fashion
This guy would just stand around outside the entrance to a department store parking lot.
This guy would just stand around outside the entrance to a department store parking lot.
Then, whenever a car approached, he would signal the pedestrians to wait and wave it in.
Then, whenever a car approached, he would signal the pedestrians to wait and wave it in.
He and a friend enjoy a rare breather.
He and a friend enjoy a rare breather.
Taiso
Taiso
Art (?)
Art (?)
Fukusuke
Fukusuke
http://naturaldog.exblog.jp/
http://naturaldog.exblog.jp/
It may look like vomit but it tastes much, much better!
It may look like vomit but it tastes much, much better!
Jessica applies the all-important finishing veneer to the okonomiyaki.
Jessica applies the all-important finishing veneer to the okonomiyaki.
More Harajuku street fashion
More Harajuku street fashion
Sadaharu Aoki plat de degustation
Sadaharu Aoki plat de degustation
And Kukuonoi's own degustation course
And Kukuonoi's own degustation course
Meguro with daikon
Meguro with daikon
Steamed turnip, tilefish, and sea urchin
Steamed turnip, tilefish, and sea urchin
Japanese Persimmon Namasu
Japanese Persimmon Namasu
Pierre Hermes'
Pierre Hermes' seasonal macaron flavors: white truffle, black truffle, and foie gras

Last night, I had dinner at Ryugin where I enjoyed a spectacular contemporary spin on the traditional kaiseki meal.  Rather than break it down for you, I’ll let the pics do the talking.  Suffice it to say, it was yet another very memorable meal.  So far, that’s six for six on the high-end dining.  Other meals, while perhaps not as magnificent, have not been without their charm.  Take today’s lunch, for instance.  After a (thankfully non-eventful) morning work-out and stroll through Harujuku, I might up with my friend Jessica for some okonomiyaki.  For those of you who don’t know, okonomi, also known as Japanese pizza, is essentially pan-fried batter containing a variety of ingredients ranging from ground beef to squid.  The restaurant we were going to on this day not only served okonomiyaki, but monjayaki that Jessica described as a “drippier” version of its cousin.

After waiting in line for some twenty minutes, we were finally seated in a room that I suspect as decorated by somebody’s crazed uncle.  Wacky, occasionally rude cartoons graced the walls.  Pez dispensers and action figures adorned the various nooks and crannies.  A Cheech and Chong plastic light-up display hung behind our table which sported a large grill at its center.  Apparently, we were expected to cook our own lunch.  Fortunately, our menu came with English okonomiyaki preparation instructions.  Unfortunately, we still couldn’t understand them.  Fortunately, Jessica charmed our waiter into, at the very least, making the monjayaki for us.  It was…well, certainly as goopy as I’d been led to believe.  But the crispy underside was pretty good.  His work done, the waiter served us our okonomiyaki ingredients and then left us to our own devices – at which point Jessica took charge, mixing everything up in the bowl and then dropping the entirety onto the skillet and shaping it into a nice, fat thingamablob.  She fried it on one side for five minutes, expertly flipped it, fried it on the other side for another five minutes, and then served it up with a not-altogether-inspiring: “Check to make sure the pork is cooked.”.  I’m not sure if it was but, regardless, it was pretty darn good.

After lunch, we took a stroll up Omotesando to Pierre Hermes where I picked up a box of the seasonal macaron selection – three suspiciously familiar tastes that I finally received confirmation on.  Pictured above from left to right, the seasonal flavors: white truffle, black truffle, and foie gras.  Delicious!

From there, it was a short cab ride to Tokyo Midtown and Dessert Stop #2, Sadaharu Aoki’s, where we enjoyed the plat de degustation offering a sampling of the shop’s delectable creations including my favorite Tokyo dessert: their matcha opera cake (which I also ordered as a side plate).

We finished up just in time for dinner, this time over to Akasaka’s Kikunoi.  Even though this was my third kaiseki meal in a relatively short time, it was different from Ryugin as Ryugin was from Hamadaya.  Here, the atmosphere was a little more relaxed.  We sat at a counter and as each course was served up, we were simultaneously  presented with the appropriate entry from the restaurant’s English language cook book.  Another magnificent meal and, again, I’ll let the pictures do the talking on this one as well.

Finally, I would be remiss if I didn’t mention two of the highlights of my day – one named Taiso, the other named Fukusuke – two French Bulldogs who ended up coming across about an hour apart.  Both adorable little guys and Fukusuke apparently has his own website: http://naturaldog.exblog.jp/

Tomorrow marks my long-awaited return to The Jiyugaoka Sweets Forest, a visit to Meguro’s Parasitological Museum, and a tea and crumpets primer.

26 thoughts on “November 29, 2008: Tokyo Travel Day #7, Kaiseki x 2, Desserts x 2, French Bulldogs x 2, and My Drippiest Lunch Ever!

  1. I am off to read the natural dog website after I finish typing this comment.

    Lulu may be a pretty young lady but Fukusuke with the lighter colouring is a beautiful lady/laddie.

    I was actually getting tetchy waiting for your update – it is almost a free holiday for me – enjoy Tokyo and let Joe pay !!

    I really hope that the weather is better than it is here in Scotland …. chilly and grey … dreicht !

    🙂

  2. @ susanTTT – I am…envious. I love chilly and grey! Of course, I can’t complain about the chillly, sunny day we have today – excellent for raking the leaves! Woo! We’re getting there, slowly but surely. Of course, it would go a lot quicker if I wasn’t on the computer, checking out Joe’s feast du jour!

    Have a great one, Joe…keep the reports and pics coming!

    das

  3. You continue to amaze me with the variety (& amount) you eat!

    Cute dogs…nice to meet up with some friends to remind you of those waiting patiently back home.

    I’m wondering if there is a matcha opera cake recipe out in the etherworld…..off to check!

  4. That’s so cool! Fukusuke does indeed have his own blog! Tons of pictures… all of him!!! I wish I could read Japanese!

    The okonomiyaki sounds good, although I think I would have tried it with only one or two ingredients to start.

    The pictures definitely did enough talking… and made my stomach growl!!!

    Thanks to Gwen Stefani, Harajuku is now the most popular street in Japan for American teen girls between the ages of 15 and 18. My sister bought Stefani’s perfume named “Harajuku” for her best friend for Christmas. Harajuku certainly seems to be a quirky place!

  5. Hi Joe,

    Sounds like you’re having a fantastic time. Loving the detail; Tokyo has never been on my list of ‘want to visit’ places but maybe you’ll change my mind 🙂

    The Parasitological museum should be interesting, I wonder if you’ll see any Goa’uld 😉

    Looking forward to tomorrow’s entry!

  6. I’m glad to hear you’re keeping up with the daily workouts. Any of the rest of us mere mortals would already be shopping for a larger sized wardrobe, if we’d eaten what you had in the last week. Thanks for sharing, and looking forward to your further adventures.

  7. Oh the dogs are so cute, did it make you yearn for yours? Fukusuke is lovely I love a fawn frenchie. Sounds like your having a great time, thanks for sharing with us all Joe. Stay safe and healthy.

  8. Hey Joe!

    Must be lots of Lulu-lookalikes in Tokyo, it’s the second one of the trip, you must really miss your dogs. 😉 You got some good pictures of the dogs though, and thanks for the website!

    Everyday I wake up now, the first thing I check is your blog. I always look forward to your Tokyo entries, and the photos (and food 😉 ) are astounding. It’s really neat to look into the culture and stylings of another country, and you’re providing the perfect insight into the life of Tokyo.

    Thanks as always!

    – Enzo Aquarius

  9. Joe,

    I haven’t been commenting, but I’m really enjoying reading about your travels. Thank you so much for sharing your adventures with us!

  10. Was that Carl caught up in yesterday’s comments?

    And Little Bo Peep.. she really needs to get a SatNav.. >.>

    Well, Joe, looks as if you’re outdoing yourself all over again. Some of that food looks delicious and then again, some doesn’t. The Street Pizza/Vomit Burger looked interesting in a forensic sense of the word, although i’m far more intrigued by the Arty-Farty thing stood grappling with passers-by. It kinda reminds me of Day Of The Triffids meets Baba Papa.. Utterly bizzare and perhaps a new alien foe for the asyettobeunveiledcrew of SGU?

    Am keeping up with the blog, but kinda awol at the moment too. Surfing, painting, bloody christmas shopping and hospital visits are taking every spare minute I have.. but there’s always room for a few minutes of reading first thing in the morning. Hope you enjoy the rest of your stay and take care, huh? 😉

  11. Oh, okonomiyaki – yum. My flatmate learned to make them on some film set she catered. I’ll have to get her to make some gluten free ones. Thanks for reminding me about them! Great photos, Joe. And cute puppies!

  12. @ Sparrow_hawk – 😆 I know – the food is killing me (okay – the desserts. The fish? Not so much. 😉 ).

    @ Joe – Is it just me, or does it seem as if you just went to bed? (NOT that I’m spying…just based on when you posted this entry. ) Hope you had a good night’s sleep.

    And woo! The leaves – are DONE! 😀 Well…except in my Japanese tea garden where, for some reason, none of the shrubs have lost their leaves yet. Probably because we have not had a frost yet, although we have had several below freezing nights. So, I’ll probably have some raking yet to do, but the bulk of it is finished. I love working out in the yard like this, making everything pretty. Very rewarding. 🙂

    das

  13. PS: @ Joe – Have you ever had chocolate sushi?

    http://www.kookisushi.com/

    I have been tempted to try it. I have seen others that are more chocolate-like in appearance, too. So, just wondering if you’ve ever tried it – a marriage of two of your favorite things – how can you resist?!

    das

  14. Hey Joe,

    That looks suspiciously like a date. Hmmm….

    I wouldn’t want to go to a restaurant that makes me cook. I suck at cooking. When I go to a restaurant I pay for a skilled person to make my meal.

    Cheers, Chev

  15. Joe! I’ve been catching up on your adventures in Tokyo and I have to say that I have thoroughly enjoyed every word!
    I can’t believe how much food you eat though…where does it all go??…Don’t answer that…it was a rhetorical question!!!
    Seriously though…I feel like I’ve been on a trip through your pictures and writings. I think it’s wonderful how you meet up with folks and go visit the sights.
    Thank you for sharing Tokyo with us and for all those beautiful pictures.
    Safe travels Joe!

  16. Why is it that most of your wierd food purchases I can relate to (except the pig sweat, could leave that one alone) but your usual diet has me retching??

    Hope your having fun over there.It’s always been my aim to visit Japan someday, after my dad spent a large portion of my childhood telling me how great it was (he was in the British Navy for Korea and spent several years out there, even got engaged to a Japanese girl. I used to imagine I had lots of half brothers and sisters in Japan – and of course, that they were much nicer to me than my real brother and sister!! Now say aahhh!). Anyway, your blog has given me a flavour – now if only I could figure out how to get 2 weeks worth of packed lunches into my suitcase without ruining my dresses….

  17. Shochu on the rocks took solong to load up that my imagination turned the ice into a whopping great diamond! then common sense kicked in and the picture showed a glaciered planetoid with unique lifeforms and…uh-oh there goes my imagination again.

  18. Hi Joe,

    More amazing pic’s! Thanks for sharing some of your holiday with us.
    That food is making me hungry! Not the vomit one though! Grose!!!

    Are cute little doggies! Are they friends of yours pets?

    Japanese street fashion is quite unique!

    Have you tried sarki??? If so what do you think of it?

    Take care & have fun!

    Happiness always!

    Cathie

  19. Hey there Mr M!

    Wow, you really have done your home work re: the restaurants of Tokyo! Am delighted that you are having a great time..Boy you really like those Herme’s Macroons…Are they available outside Japan?
    Also, great to see Carl Binder here!! *Doffs cap to Mr B*

    Lovn’ the Harajuku Street fashions…Also, the adverts and Jap-glish (name given to the mixed up english phrases) As you know, most Hollywood A-listers do adverts in Japan which never get picked up at home..including adverts for cigarettes!! But my personal fav. is a shampoo called “Sexy Mild” (?)which had an advert with Meg Ryan dressed as a nun (!?!)
    Tell us more about the hotel, is it “Lost in Translation” or more personable?

    Enjoy

    Best to you and all your dining companions

    Shirt’n’Tie

    PS With regard to toothpaste – stick with brands you know!!

  20. Hi, Joe

    I just want to say that I’m really sad. I know is not your problem, but I hope you read this, anyway.

    I like McKay. But what all of you did with Ronon was wrong. Really wrong. That man LOST HIS WHOLE WORLD. Everything! It took years before he falls in love again. And then, you make him lost his love AGAIN. It’s not fair. Why he has to fall in love with Jennifer if she belongs to McKay?

    Looks like this whole “love triangle” thing was just to make McKay looks better. Like: “McKay is the BEST MAN! He stole Ronon’s woman!”. Maybe Gero had some problems with big, fearless, strong men, who never hesitate before risk his own life for another people. And he want to feel better humiliating Ronon, making him looks a looser. “Hey, LOOK! The big, sexy guy loose for the nerd!”

    I don’t know how the show end, of course. But if you’ll throw Ronon a bone (Amelia Banks or another random woman). will be worst! That man was not ready for another love for so many years and finally he’s in love with Jennifer. She does not want him and 4, 5 episodes later, he will be in love with another woman? Is so out of character. Nobody will believe that! 15 seconds on screen with Banks and she kicks some ass and then he’s in love with her? Come on!

    I know, now it’s too late to fix it. The show is over. And Ronon lost AGAIN! And looks like he does not deserve to be happy and find true love. It’s really sad for all of us who likes Ronon. Really sad!

  21. Hi Joseph,

    You also went to RyuGin? It’s amazing, isn’t it? I believe it’ll be promoted to 3 stars within a few years. The gastronomic culture in Tokyo is just amazing. 🙂

  22. Hi Cathy,

    Thanks for dropping by. As I said, I’m putting together a list of restaurants to visit for my return trip and, while I’d love to pay a return visit to many of the fabulous places I enjoyed the last time I was in time, I think I’d better make room for the new entries. But Ryugin will be an exception. My meal was so creative the last time that I figure going out will almost be like visiting a whole new restaurant.

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